Post by Bernard Kron on Jan 16, 2020 21:53:44 GMT -5
Over the past few years I've developed a baremetal steel technique which I think gives quite convincing results. So I thought I would share it here.
I start by painting the model in a standard medium colored silver such as Tamiya TS83 Metallic Silver or in my case my current favorite generic silver, Duplicolor DAL 1679 Metallic Silver (the cheap stuff that comes in the tall can - fear not, it lays down beautifully). Finish your paint job to whatever level of quality you feel is appropriate and then rub a metalizer powder like Kosutte Gin Sang over it. The smoother and more highly polished your basic paint job is, the more uniform and less variegated will be the finish. In the case of die stamped bodies like the bare metal TRJ example this finish is quite uniform. But the nice thing about the metalizer powder is that it will bring out any "grinder" or "file marks" you care to include. The result is quite realistic, I think. Here are two examples, the first over styrene plastic and the second over resin:
This is a bellypan. It has the scratches and wear marks you would expect from the bottom of a car. Other than the scratches and dings which were applied after the paint job was completed using medium fine grit sandpapers, the actual finish was quite smooth. The metalizer powder application is fairly light which accounts for the bright steel look. For the light surface rust I first considered where that rust would appear (along edges or in crevices which would trap moisture), then added rust colored weathering powders to those areas. Overall dirt was added with a dark soot weathering powder.
This second one is what a smooth, scratch free paint job looks like. The discoloration of bare steel is established by applying a heavier dose of metalizer powder. Using a lighter application of the metalizer powder would result in a less greenish or tarnished look. No additional weathering powders were used. This is straight Kosutte Ginsang.
I hope you find this approach useful.
B.
Note: Work Kosutte Gin Sang has always been hard to find. I got mine several years ago from Hobbylink Japan, and even then I had to wait on backorder for several weeks. I just did a web search on the stuff and drew a blank. It is very likely it's no longer available. So I then searched at Hobbylink Japan and they default to C1 Metalizer (see: HobbyLink Japan C1 Metalizer and C1 Models C1 Metalizer ). I have known about C1 for quite some time and it appears to be a good substitute. My original container of Kosutte Gin San is still more than half full after several years of use and will last several more. I suspect that with C1 Metalizer you will get the same results and it will last many years. I use my Gin San for other things besides bare metal effects including enhancing or changing the nature of other metallic paints such as gunmetal, chrome of bronze paints. It definitely worth experimenting with because it can yield some very realistic effects.
I start by painting the model in a standard medium colored silver such as Tamiya TS83 Metallic Silver or in my case my current favorite generic silver, Duplicolor DAL 1679 Metallic Silver (the cheap stuff that comes in the tall can - fear not, it lays down beautifully). Finish your paint job to whatever level of quality you feel is appropriate and then rub a metalizer powder like Kosutte Gin Sang over it. The smoother and more highly polished your basic paint job is, the more uniform and less variegated will be the finish. In the case of die stamped bodies like the bare metal TRJ example this finish is quite uniform. But the nice thing about the metalizer powder is that it will bring out any "grinder" or "file marks" you care to include. The result is quite realistic, I think. Here are two examples, the first over styrene plastic and the second over resin:
This is a bellypan. It has the scratches and wear marks you would expect from the bottom of a car. Other than the scratches and dings which were applied after the paint job was completed using medium fine grit sandpapers, the actual finish was quite smooth. The metalizer powder application is fairly light which accounts for the bright steel look. For the light surface rust I first considered where that rust would appear (along edges or in crevices which would trap moisture), then added rust colored weathering powders to those areas. Overall dirt was added with a dark soot weathering powder.
This second one is what a smooth, scratch free paint job looks like. The discoloration of bare steel is established by applying a heavier dose of metalizer powder. Using a lighter application of the metalizer powder would result in a less greenish or tarnished look. No additional weathering powders were used. This is straight Kosutte Ginsang.
I hope you find this approach useful.
B.
Note: Work Kosutte Gin Sang has always been hard to find. I got mine several years ago from Hobbylink Japan, and even then I had to wait on backorder for several weeks. I just did a web search on the stuff and drew a blank. It is very likely it's no longer available. So I then searched at Hobbylink Japan and they default to C1 Metalizer (see: HobbyLink Japan C1 Metalizer and C1 Models C1 Metalizer ). I have known about C1 for quite some time and it appears to be a good substitute. My original container of Kosutte Gin San is still more than half full after several years of use and will last several more. I suspect that with C1 Metalizer you will get the same results and it will last many years. I use my Gin San for other things besides bare metal effects including enhancing or changing the nature of other metallic paints such as gunmetal, chrome of bronze paints. It definitely worth experimenting with because it can yield some very realistic effects.
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